|
|
|
GREAT SITES BEES BUTTERFLIES WORMS SEED BALLS NEW ANNUALS FOR 2010
www.anniesannuals.com Great photos of plants growing in various garden sites www.reneesgarden.com Great seed resource www.seedsofchange.com Great catalog of unaltered, heritage seeds www.simplybeautifulgarden.com Great hints of color and height parings www.tmseeds.com Great new seed varieties and heritage seeds also www.bhg.com/gardening/flowers Better Homes and Gardens top new varieties www.beltramicountymastergardeners.org/files/2009NewVarieties Great Site! with fantastic pictures of the new 2009 varieties. www.californiagardenclubs.org Great resource page for club info. Great District page showing all the clubs in our Valley. www.filoli.org Wonderful home and gardens. Terrific Christmas program www.ncry.org The Niles Canyon Wildflower Train, Train of Lights, and Mother's Day Ride are just 20 minutes away near Fremont, CA. WOW experience.
Many beekeepers have bee hives in their back yards. Some bees are even kept on city roof-tops. Bees can travel several miles to collect nectar and pollen, so they do not need flowering plants close by. Most suburbs have plenty of flowers, and bees can make a good crop of local honey. Working the Bees When working inside a hive, it is possible that an angry bee will find an innocent nearby person (other than the beekeeper) to be a suitable target for a sting. Fortunately, there are ways of preventing that from happening! The defensiveness of bees is greatly influenced by environmental conditions. A beekeeper who works with the bees when conditions are good will have few, if any, angry bees. The same bees that are gentle on one day can become very defensive on another day. The best conditions to work with the bees are when:
The bees will tend to be gentle when there is a nectar flow, when they swarm, and following a light smoking. Bees that are accustomed to movement around their hive reportedly are also less likely to be defensive, so having bushes, trees, a flag or other objects that move in a mild wind are worth considering. Races of Bees Most common strains of bees are gentle enough to keep in a city. In the northern U.S., the Carniolan race is most popular. In the southern U.S. and Mexico, the Italian bee is preferred. If a colony is found to be inclined to sting, it should be re-queened with gentle stock. Bees and the Law Relatively few communities in the U.S. outlaw beekeeping. However, most have "nuisance laws" that are intended to outlaw things that most people would find objectionable, such as a barking dog or a stinky smell. Some communities have laws that put practical constraints on beekeeping, such as limits on numbers of hives and a requirement that the beekeeper provide water for the bees. There will be bees in our cities and towns as long as there are nectar and pollen-producing plants. Outlawing beekeeping tends to replace domesticated bees with wild bees, but does not make bees go away. Prospective beekeepers should learn about legal restrictions before keeping bees. Regardless of the law, a good beekeeper does not allow his bees to annoy neighbors. Sharing a jar or two of honey helps too!
BEST BUTTERFLY GARDEN PLANTS The butterfly garden is wonderful fun for kids and adults alike. When you design your own butterfly garden you will want to provide for all stages of the butterfly life cycle; eggs, caterpillars and adults. Butterfly caterpillars eat different plants than butterfly adults. Butterfly adults generally eat nectar. And caterpillars eat leaves. You will also want some still water for butterflies to drink. A birdbath can often give a butterfly a necessary drink. Swallowtails will often congregate around wet gravel. A courtyard or enclosed space can provide a still environment so the wind does not wreck havoc with the movement of the butterflies. A south facing wall will warm the air and allow for an extended day of flight for your butterflies. It is fascinating to watch a butterfly flit through a garden. It seems like they have no preferred destination at all. But they will almost always alight on the same kinds of plants. The passion vines (passiflora species) are famous for providing the Gulf Fritillary caterpillars plenty of food. And the Monarch Butterfly has a special relationship with milkweed. The list of nectar plants for butterfly adults to feed upon is lengthy and often very specific to the kind of butterfly that will come to feed. Easy gardening nectar plants include Eriogonum species, Salvia species, Ceanothus species, and Lupine Species. The list of plants that butterflies will visit is is ever-changing. Butterflies will visit many other plants if their favorites are not in view. The ones on this list are particularly noted for attracting the following butterflies. BUTTERFLY FLOWER Northern Cloudywing Clover Orange Sulfur " Sachem Skipper " Acmon Blue " Gulf Fritillary Violets Northern Checkerspot Common California Aster Acmom Blue Buckwheats Gorgon Copper " Purplish Copper " Green Hairstreak " Orange Sulfur Deerweed Acmon Blue " California Ringlet Bunch Grasses Umber Skipper " Woodland Skipper " Columbian Skipper " Rural Skipper " Fiery Skipper " Sachem Skipper " American Lady Pearly Everlasting Common Buckeye Snapdragon Chalcedon Checkerspot Plantain Common Buckeye " Satyr Anglewing Nettles Red Admiral " Painted Lady " Large Marble Wild Radish Sara Orangetip " Cabbage White " Red Admiral Thistles Painted Lady " Mylitta Crescent " Cabbage White Field Mustard Large Marble " Sara Orangetip " Checkered White " Monarch Milkweed Swallowtail Dutchman’s Pipe Gray Hairstreak California Coffee berry Pale Swallowtail " Spring Azure California Buckeye Anise Swallowtail Fennel California Sister Oaks California Hairstreak " Gray Hairstreak " Sping Azure " Mournful Duskwing " Pale Swallowtail Ceanothus Brown Elfin " Spring Azure " California Hairstreak " Large Marble Wild Radish Sara Orangetip " Cabbage White "
"Interesting Facts About Earthworms"
NEW PERENNIAL VARIETIES FOR 2010 - 2011 1. Marmalade Coneflower (echinacea).....full sun 2. Firebird Coneflower (echinacea).....full sun 3. Coral Reef Coneflower (echinacea)....full sun 4. Tangerine Dream Coneflower (echinacea).....full sun 5. Maui Sunshine Coneflower (echinacea).....full sun 6. Mesa Yellow Gaillardia (gillardia x grandiflora).....full sun 7. Blue River Clematis (clematis zoblueriver).....full sun 8. Burggarten Aster (aster tongolensis).....full sun 9. Vancouver Clematis Starry Nights (vancouver clematis).....full sun 10. Black Adder New Zealand Flax (phormium FITO).....full sun 11. Midnight Bayou Coralbells (heuchera).....sun and part shade 12. Autumn Leaves Coralbells (heuchera).....sun and part shade 13. Mint Julep Coralbells (heuchera).....shade 14. Golden Zebra Foamy Bells (xheucherella pumpkin festival).....shade 15. James Fleming Hibiscus (hibiscus moscheutos).....full sun 16. Viking Bellflower (campanula).....full sun 17. Pink Double Dandy Peony (paeonia).....full sun or partial sun 18. Grand Mum Bee Balm (monarda didyma ACmum).....full sun or partial sun 19. Emerald Mist Brunnera (brunners macrophylla).....shade 20. Crystal Peak White Obedient Plant (physostegia virginiana).....full sun 21. Pam's Split Foxglove (digitalis purpurea).....full sun or partial sun 22. Banana Cream Shasta Daisy (leucanthemum x superbum).....full sun or partial sun 23. Yellow Doodle Dandy Peony (paeonia).....full sun or partial sun 24. Koi Geum (geum coccineum).....full sun 25. Earlybird Cardinal Daylily (hemerocallis).....full sun 26. Snowflame Hibiscus (hibiscus moscheutos).....full sun 27. Bella Blue Prunella (prunella grandiflora).....full sun or partial sun 28. Jade Tiger Lenten Rose (helleborus winter jewels).....shade 29. Prairie Twilight Penstemon (penstemon).....full sun or partial sun 30. Centuriom Lilac Blue Bicolor Delphinum (delphinum).....full sun or partial 31. Heronswood Pink Stars Sedum (sedum surium).....full sun 32. Heatwave Glitter Salvia (salvia greggii).....full sun 33. Halo White Hollyhock (alcea).....full sun 34. Heronswood Yellow Bonnet Lysimachia (lysimachia paridiformis f stenophylla).....partial sun 35. Windcliff Pachysandra (pachysandra axillarius).....shade or partial sun
HOW TO MAKE SEED BALLS WHAT ARE SEED BALLS? Seed balls are one inch diameter models of the living world containing all the seeds for a complete habitat, wild or domestic garden, or both in one. Hundreds of kinds of seeds, soil humus, dry soil from your landscape and sand form the solid components of seed balls. When mixed with water and rolled into balls, they become little adobe gardens. They are cost effective, hundreds of times faster to apply and can be made by anyone, anywhere in the world where there is soil and seed. HOW TO MAKE THEM STEP 1: GATHER YOUR MATERIALS a. 3 parts dry humus, from compost with live mycorrhizal fungi soil inoculates or additional manure b. 1 part dry mixed seeds, assortment of all desired plants c. 5 parts soil from your landscape, dried and sifted d. 1 to 2 parts dry fine sand, cleaned and sifted (if clay does not have a little sand) e. 1 to 2 parts water STEP 2: SIFT a. Sift dry soil through a sifter to eliminate lumps. STEP 3: MIX a. Measure out one part seeds to three parts of compost to five parts of soil b. Thoroughly stir the seeds in a large container c. Cover with dry soil humus from compost d. Add dry soil and mix well. If the local soil does not have a little sand in it, you may want to add some aggregate strength sand. e. Add water gradually until a firm, suitable consistency is reached to where you can roll the soil into one inch diameter balls. STEP 4: ROLL a. Pinch off wet soil from the main mass and roll between the palms of the hands until smooth and round. b. After a few seconds the soil can be felt to set up, or organize, as the tiny clay platelets align themselves to each other and enclose the seeds c. It is important to roll the balls until this polymerization id felt so that the ball will dry with structural integrity. d. Finished seed balls may be set in the low sun undisturbed for approximately 24 hours to dry. STEP 5: DISTRIBUTE a. Once they are dry, the seed ballsy may be stored in a cool dry container or they may be broadcast immediately after drying. b. Allow the seed balls to lay dormant in place until released by rain. c. SEED BALLS DO NOT NEED TO BE BURIED OR WATERED. d. Seed balls are perfectly content to simply lay about “sleeping” until the right amount of rain falls. e. When the rains come, no matter where a seed ball has landed, something from the mix inside will be at home on the spot, so all possible habitat bases are covered in one broadcast application STEP 6: PATIENCE a. Protected from predatory insects, rodents, birds, and other animals, seed balls lie dormant until sufficient rains fall to start their germination. b. Hundreds of sprouts will explode from each ball as they eagerly reach for the sun. c. You will enjoy your wildflower garden and can also use the seed balls made from specific desired seeds. HOW MANY TO APPLY A minimum application seeks a scatter density of at lease 10 seed balls per square yard. Adequate coverage requires at least 2 grams of seeds per square yard. Restoration requires at least 3 grams of seeds per square yard. Between 2- to 30 pounds of mixed seeds are required per acre A WORD OF CAUTION You roll all the forces of nature into seed balls when you make them, they have tremendous regenerative powers and they can be of great benefit. But used carelessly or wantonly, seed balls can cause irreparable biological disruption by effectively introducing alien species into a habitat with no means of coping with rampant invaders. The world is already host to numerous incidents of introducing exotic species that have radically altered native landscapes everywhere. Be careful of which seeds you choose and when you scatter them.
|