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GREAT BOOKS

 

GREAT SITES    BEES   BUTTERFLIES   WORMS       SEED BALLS   NEW ANNUALS  FOR 2010

 

GREAT SITES

www.anniesannuals.com   Great photos of plants growing in various garden sites

www.reneesgarden.com   Great seed resource

www.seedsofchange.com  Great catalog of unaltered, heritage seeds

www.simplybeautifulgarden.com  Great hints of color and height parings

www.tmseeds.com         Great new seed varieties and heritage seeds also

www.bhg.com/gardening/flowers  Better Homes and Gardens top new varieties

www.beltramicountymastergardeners.org/files/2009NewVarieties    Great Site! with fantastic pictures of the new 2009 varieties.

www.californiagardenclubs.org  Great resource page for club info. Great District page showing all the clubs in our Valley.

www.filoli.org  Wonderful home and gardens. Terrific Christmas program

www.ncry.org  The Niles Canyon Wildflower Train, Train of Lights, and Mother's Day Ride are just 20 minutes away near Fremont, CA.  WOW experience.

 

BEES

Many beekeepers have bee hives in their back yards.  Some bees are even kept on city roof-tops.  Bees can travel several miles to collect nectar and pollen, so they do not need flowering plants close by.  Most suburbs have plenty of flowers, and bees can make a good crop of local honey.

Working the Bees

When working inside a hive, it is possible that an angry bee will find an innocent nearby person (other than the beekeeper) to be a suitable target for a sting.  Fortunately, there are ways of preventing that from happening!  

The defensiveness of bees is greatly influenced by environmental conditions.  A beekeeper who works with the bees when conditions are good will have few, if any, angry bees.  The same bees that are gentle on one day can become very defensive on another day.  The best conditions to work with the bees are when:

  • Most of the field bees are out in the field collecting nectar
  • When there is a nectar flow from flowering plants
  • When the colony is not under stress from predators, such as wasps.
  • When colonies are in direct sunlight
  • When the temperature is not very hot (95 degrees F or higher)
  • When neighbors are not having a lawn party or mowing their yard

The bees will tend to be gentle when there is a nectar flow, when they swarm, and following a light smoking.

Bees that are accustomed to movement around their hive reportedly are also less likely to be defensive, so having bushes, trees, a flag or other objects that move in a mild wind are worth considering.

Races of Bees

Most common strains of bees are gentle enough to keep in a city.  In the northern U.S., the Carniolan race is most popular.  In the southern U.S. and Mexico, the Italian bee is preferred.  If a colony is found to be inclined to sting, it should be re-queened with gentle stock.    

        Bees and the Law

Relatively few communities in the U.S. outlaw beekeeping.  However, most have "nuisance laws" that are intended to outlaw things that most people would find objectionable, such as a barking dog or a stinky smell.  Some communities have laws that put practical constraints on beekeeping, such as limits on numbers of hives and a requirement that the beekeeper provide water for the bees. 

There will be bees in our cities and towns as long as there are nectar and pollen-producing plants.  Outlawing beekeeping tends to replace domesticated bees with wild bees, but does not make bees go away. 

Prospective beekeepers should learn about legal restrictions before keeping bees.  Regardless of the law, a good beekeeper does not allow his bees to annoy neighbors.  Sharing a jar or two of honey helps too!  

 

BUTTERFLIES

BEST BUTTERFLY GARDEN PLANTS

The butterfly garden is wonderful fun for kids and adults alike.  When you design your own butterfly garden you will want to provide for all stages of the butterfly life cycle; eggs, caterpillars and adults.  Butterfly caterpillars eat different plants than butterfly adults.  Butterfly adults generally eat nectar.  And caterpillars eat leaves.  You will also want some still water for butterflies to drink.  A birdbath can often give a butterfly a necessary drink.  Swallowtails will often congregate around wet gravel.

A courtyard or enclosed space can provide a still environment so the wind does not wreck havoc with the movement of the butterflies.  A south facing wall will warm the air and allow for an extended day of flight for your butterflies.  

It is fascinating to watch a butterfly flit through a garden.  It seems like they have no preferred destination at all.  But they will almost always alight on the same kinds of plants.

The passion vines (passiflora species) are famous for providing the Gulf Fritillary caterpillars plenty of food.  And the Monarch Butterfly has a special relationship with milkweed.  The list of nectar plants for butterfly adults to feed upon is lengthy and often very specific to the kind of butterfly that will come to feed.   Easy gardening nectar plants include Eriogonum species, Salvia species, Ceanothus species, and Lupine Species.  The list of plants that butterflies will visit is is ever-changing.  Butterflies will visit many other plants if their favorites are not in view.  The ones on this list are particularly noted for attracting the following butterflies.                                       

BUTTERFLY                         FLOWER

Northern Cloudywing                Clover

Orange Sulfur                                "

Sachem Skipper                            "

Acmon Blue                                     "

Gulf Fritillary                                Violets

Northern Checkerspot                Common California Aster

Acmom Blue                                     Buckwheats

Gorgon Copper                                    "

Purplish Copper                                 "

Green Hairstreak                               "

Orange Sulfur                                   Deerweed

Acmon Blue                                          "

California Ringlet                          Bunch Grasses

Umber Skipper                                 "

Woodland Skipper                          "

Columbian Skipper                         "

Rural Skipper                                    "

Fiery Skipper                                     "

Sachem Skipper                                "

American Lady                             Pearly Everlasting

Common Buckeye                        Snapdragon

Chalcedon Checkerspot            Plantain

Common Buckeye                            "

Satyr Anglewing                           Nettles

Red Admiral                                    "

Painted Lady                                   "

Large Marble                                 Wild Radish

Sara Orangetip                                "

Cabbage White                                "

Red Admiral                                 Thistles

Painted Lady                                    "

Mylitta Crescent                             "

Cabbage White                            Field Mustard

Large Marble                                    "

Sara Orangetip                                "

Checkered White                            "

Monarch                                       Milkweed

Swallowtail                                  Dutchman’s Pipe

Gray Hairstreak                        California Coffee berry

Pale Swallowtail                                "

Spring Azure                               California Buckeye

Anise Swallowtail                     Fennel

California Sister                        Oaks

California Hairstreak                    "

Gray Hairstreak                                "

Sping Azure                                        "

Mournful Duskwing                        "

Pale Swallowtail                           Ceanothus

Brown Elfin                                        "

Spring Azure                                      "

California Hairstreak                    "

Large Marble                                   Wild Radish

Sara Orangetip                                  "

Cabbage White                                   "

 

WORMS 

"Interesting Facts About Earthworms"


The benefits of earthworms are well-known. They are tireless tillers of our soils and their castings are the richest and best of all fertilizers. It is would be impossible to ever have too many in our gardens, unless you don't want lush, healthy plants!

Earthworms need moist soil to survive. Our dry summers are lethal to many, especially those that happen to end up in the lawn areas that receive full exposure to the merciless summertime sun. It is no wonder that people have so many problems with their lawns - they are inhospitable to the creatures that do the most to benefit the soil, and without healthy soil you won't have healthy plants.

During periods of drought, the earthworms recede deeply into their burrows, which can be six feet deep. The mucous from their exterior helps to provide structure to their burrows so that they do not collapse.

Rototilling the soil can be harmful to earthworms. Not so much from the machine, as they flee from vibration, but mostly because their food supply is depleted rapidly when exposed to oxygen. If you rototill, you should immediately cover the area with partially finished compost or waterlogged leaves.

The most common garden earthworm, the nightcrawler (lumbricus terristris) is not native to North America and was in fact brought, over in potted plants by Europeans. Most of the native North American earthworms were killed during the last Ice Age 10 to 15 thousand years ago. This is one case of where the accidental introduction of a foreign species has been beneficial.

Garden earthworms are not to be confused with composting worms that can be kept in containers. L. terristris is a burrower, and will kill itself trying to burrow in a worm bin. Composting worms cannot tolerate temperature extremes, and though they can survive inside a compost pile, will perish if left to their own in garden soil.  Here in suburbia, where food waste volume is small relative to yard waste volume, densely populated cities and apartment complexes are more appropriate for indoor worm bins.

Worms are hermaphroditic, meaning that they possess both sets of sex organs. However, they still need to mate with another worm in order to produce offspring. The raised band that encircles the worm is actually a carrying case for its eggs. Once the eggs are formed, the band migrates along the worm's body and it is then shed and the eggs left to hatch.

A few more facts about Earthworms:

- have been kept alive for 6 years, but in the wild probably live two years at the most;
- do not have lungs, breathe through their skin, and can live under water for a while;
- do not come to the surface during rain to escape drowning, but rather to find a mate since their mobility is much better on wet ground;
- lack eyes but are light sensitive;
- can detect the motion of a robin (that can hear the earthworm in its burrow);
- may survive being frozen if the freeze is not too rapid

Maintaining a healthy population of worms is easy. Just use common sense and see that they have a moist, well-mulched habitat with plenty of decaying matter. Take care when turning the compost pile. A pile interior might contain dozens of worms, so try to relocate them to an area where they will have a good chance in which to burrow deeply. Worms are resilient, have a high reproduction rate, and can survive without us. But with just a little help they can be made to flourish. And you can forget about ever needing a rototiller.


 

NEW PERENNIAL VARIETIES FOR 2010 - 2011

1.  Marmalade Coneflower (echinacea).....full sun

2.  Firebird Coneflower (echinacea).....full sun

3.  Coral Reef Coneflower (echinacea)....full sun

4.  Tangerine Dream Coneflower (echinacea).....full sun

5.  Maui Sunshine Coneflower (echinacea).....full sun

6.  Mesa Yellow Gaillardia (gillardia x grandiflora).....full sun

7.  Blue River Clematis (clematis zoblueriver).....full sun

8.  Burggarten Aster (aster tongolensis).....full sun

9.  Vancouver Clematis Starry Nights (vancouver clematis).....full sun

10.  Black Adder New Zealand Flax (phormium FITO).....full sun

11.  Midnight Bayou Coralbells (heuchera).....sun and part shade

12.  Autumn Leaves Coralbells (heuchera).....sun and part shade

13.  Mint Julep Coralbells (heuchera).....shade

14.  Golden Zebra Foamy Bells (xheucherella pumpkin festival).....shade

15.  James Fleming Hibiscus (hibiscus moscheutos).....full sun

16.  Viking Bellflower (campanula).....full sun

17.  Pink Double Dandy Peony (paeonia).....full sun or partial sun

18.  Grand Mum Bee Balm (monarda didyma ACmum).....full sun or partial sun

19.  Emerald Mist Brunnera (brunners macrophylla).....shade

20.  Crystal Peak White Obedient Plant (physostegia virginiana).....full sun

21.  Pam's Split Foxglove (digitalis purpurea).....full sun or partial sun

22.  Banana Cream Shasta Daisy (leucanthemum x superbum).....full sun or partial sun

23.  Yellow Doodle Dandy Peony (paeonia).....full sun or partial sun

24.  Koi Geum (geum coccineum).....full sun

25.  Earlybird Cardinal Daylily (hemerocallis).....full sun

26.  Snowflame Hibiscus (hibiscus moscheutos).....full sun

27.  Bella Blue Prunella (prunella grandiflora).....full sun or partial sun

28.  Jade Tiger Lenten Rose (helleborus winter jewels).....shade

29.  Prairie Twilight Penstemon (penstemon).....full sun or partial sun

30.  Centuriom Lilac Blue Bicolor Delphinum (delphinum).....full sun or partial

31.  Heronswood Pink Stars Sedum (sedum surium).....full sun

32.  Heatwave Glitter Salvia (salvia greggii).....full sun

33.  Halo White Hollyhock (alcea).....full sun

34.  Heronswood Yellow Bonnet Lysimachia (lysimachia paridiformis f stenophylla).....partial sun

35.  Windcliff Pachysandra (pachysandra axillarius).....shade or partial sun

 

 

SEED BALLS

HOW TO MAKE SEED BALLS 

WHAT ARE SEED BALLS?

Seed balls are one inch diameter models of the living world containing all the seeds for a complete habitat, wild or domestic garden, or both in one.  Hundreds of kinds of seeds, soil humus, dry soil from your landscape and sand form the solid components of seed balls.  When mixed with water and rolled into balls, they become little adobe gardens.  They are cost effective, hundreds of times faster to apply and can be made by anyone, anywhere in the world where there is soil and seed.

HOW TO MAKE THEM

STEP 1: GATHER YOUR MATERIALS

a.      3 parts dry humus, from compost with live mycorrhizal fungi soil inoculates or additional manure

b.      1 part dry mixed seeds, assortment of all desired plants

c.      5 parts soil from your landscape, dried and sifted

d.      1 to 2 parts dry fine sand, cleaned and sifted (if clay does not have a little sand)

e.        1 to 2 parts water

STEP 2:  SIFT

a.      Sift dry soil through a sifter to eliminate lumps.

STEP 3: MIX

a.      Measure out one part seeds to three parts of compost to five parts of soil

b.      Thoroughly stir the seeds in a large container

c.       Cover with dry soil humus from compost

d.       Add dry soil and mix well.  If the local soil does not have a little sand in it, you  may want to add some aggregate strength sand.

e.       Add water gradually until a firm, suitable consistency is reached to where you can roll the soil into one inch diameter balls.

STEP 4:  ROLL

a.      Pinch off wet soil from the main mass and roll between the palms of the hands until smooth and round.

b.       After a few seconds the soil can be felt to set up, or organize, as  the tiny clay platelets align themselves to each other and enclose the seeds

c.       It is important to roll the balls until this polymerization id felt so that the ball will dry with structural integrity.

d.       Finished seed balls may be set in the low sun undisturbed for approximately 24 hours to dry.

STEP 5:  DISTRIBUTE

a.      Once they are dry, the seed ballsy may be stored in a cool dry container or they may be broadcast immediately after drying.

b.      Allow the seed balls to lay dormant in place until released by rain.

c.       SEED BALLS DO NOT NEED TO BE BURIED OR WATERED.

d.      Seed balls are perfectly content to simply lay about “sleeping” until the right amount of rain falls.

e.       When the rains come, no matter where a seed ball has landed, something from the mix inside will be at home on the spot, so all possible habitat bases are covered in one broadcast application

STEP 6:  PATIENCE

a.      Protected from predatory insects, rodents, birds, and other animals, seed balls lie dormant until sufficient rains fall to start their germination.

b.       Hundreds of sprouts will explode from each ball as they eagerly reach for the sun. 

c.       You will enjoy your wildflower garden and can also use the seed balls made from specific desired seeds.

HOW MANY TO APPLY

A minimum application seeks a scatter density of at lease 10 seed balls per square yard.  Adequate coverage requires at least 2 grams of seeds per square yard.  Restoration requires at least 3 grams of seeds per square yard.  Between 2- to 30 pounds of mixed seeds are required per acre

 A WORD OF CAUTION

You roll all the forces of nature into seed balls when you make them, they have tremendous regenerative powers and they can be of great benefit.  But used carelessly or wantonly, seed balls can cause irreparable biological disruption by effectively introducing alien species into a habitat with no means of coping with rampant invaders.  The world is already host to numerous incidents of introducing exotic species that have radically altered native landscapes everywhere.  Be careful of which seeds you choose and when you scatter them.